I’m an avid camper and nature sound recordist, and I camp anywhere from two nights to a month at a time. I previously converted my Honda CR-V to a camper, which made camping easier and more enjoyable for my old bones. I recently replaced the CR-V with a 2018 Nissan Rogue, with plans to convert it as well.
Why the Rogue
With more than 300,000 miles on it, I was starting to become a little uncomfortable taking my ’99 CR-V camper on long trips. It still runs great, but the possibility of a catastrophic failure is increasing. I started to look at alternative vehicles, and finding a good balance of ground clearance, MPGs, and interior cargo area is difficult. I finally settled on a 2018 Nissan Rogue SV AWD, which is slightly larger than the CR-V, gets better gas mileage, isn’t overwhelmed with tech, and comes with 8.2” of ground clearance. It does have a reputation for premature failures of the CVT (transmission), so I bought an extended warranty with it. I’ve driven more than 10,000 miles now, and I really enjoy the comfort and intuitive controls.
The good and the bad
It has a couple of features that make it good for camping. First, the interior lights all shut off with switches, so no messing around with the cargo door latch to “fool” the car into thinking it’s closed. It can allow the driver to manually control the transmission, effectively adding hill descent control. And it has a lock for the rear wheels, which forces 50% of the power to the rear. This only works at low speeds. It also has 12-volt jacks below the radio, inside the console, and at the rear of the vehicle.
The Rogue also had some things I didn’t like so much. It came with a partial-service spare tire (donut), which is not suitable for driving on back roads. So, I added a full-sized spare tire, as well as a tire repair kit and compressor. And although it had 8.2” of ground clearance, the front end of the car stuck out quite a bit, creating a bad approach angle. Whenever going through a dip or small ravine, I bumped the nose. I didn’t do any damage, but I figured that it was just a matter of time. So, I added a 2” leveling kit to the car (2” in front, 1.5 in back) and have had no trouble since. It also has what I consider a couple of design flaws, which appear to be addressed in later versions. First, is a very wide front window pillar that blocks the view when going around corners. Second is a large gap around the doors, especially the cargo hatch, which accumulates a lot of dirt when traveling on dirt roads. Weather stripping keeps it out of the interior, but it still creates a mess that requires constant sweeping (I carry a small hand broom just for that purpose).
The build
The rear seats of the Rogue don’t fold flat, so I opted to take them out. Luckily, it was much easier than in the CR-V. Once the seats were out, I built a platform in the back that would level the surface, provide extra storage, and allow easy access to the spare tire. The Rogue came with an interesting cargo floor set up, with separate panels that can be configured in a variety of ways. I had hoped to use the original panels with the build, but when I added the full-sized spare, they no longer fit properly. So, I built a box around the spare tire to support the rear portion of the platform, while also creating easy access to the spare and providing some storage.
The front portion of the platform was a framework made of 2×4’s and 2x2s. I left a gap behind the driver’s seat for my 12v cooler, with some extra room to stash things like extra water jugs or blankets. The front platform has hinged panels that lift from each side, allowing access to storage. The framework is anchored to bolts attached to former seat anchors.
I covered the platform with carpet – actually thin rugs from Walmart. The area over the rear tires has a flat shelf, to which I added small baskets, made from cardboard and duct tape, and covered with denim from old jeans. The baskets are held in place with Alien Tape (love this stuff!). They provide a great space for toiletries close to my bed, and an air compressor and other tools on the other side.
Other modifications: all-terrain tires (Yokohama Geolandars), seat covers, rain guards, a console cover to protect from dog scratches, window bug screens and curtains (homemade). For warmer weather, I added a tailgate mosquito net and a Vevor car canopy. I finally gave up on this thing and went back to my Hasika awning.
Overall, I’m quite pleased with the build. Especially since I built it while suffering from COVID brain fog. I actually don’t remember much of the construction, just that it seemed to require a Herculean effort and a lot of naps. I bought the car just a few weeks before a big trip to South Dakota and then up to southern Saskatchewan, so I was in a rush to get it built and outfitted before the trip. The effort was worth it, and the trip went great.
Packing up
Because of the tight cargo space, packing has to be done carefully. I try to take my time packing, making sure everything is packed into its little niche.
In traveling mode, all of the camping gear and recording equipment goes at the rear of the car. The dog’s area is right behind the driver’s seat. My sleeping gear is folded over into the area behind the front passenger seat. To keep the camping gear from sliding forward, I have a cargo net that separates the rear cargo area from the area where the seats used to be.
For the dog, I have a non-tip bowl, with a water bottle that fits into the door for refills. Her food bags and treats go under the platform where, so far, she hasn’t found a way to get into them. Leashes and tie outs go in the pocket behind the driver’s seat.
Water: I usually carry at least 5 gallons of water, often a combination of hard-sided containers and collapsible containers. Recently I picked up a nice 3.2-gallon jug and added a battery-powered pump. For collapsible containers, I like these water storage cubes. I also have several metal water flasks scattered around the car, so water is always close by.
Food: Dry food and cooking gear go in totes with hinged lids like these. I picked up half a dozen of these boxes more than 30 years ago and have used them almost every year since. They have held up perfectly. The only downside is that they are not waterproof. I carry a small, waterproof tablecloth to cover the boxes if they need to stay out – they also fit in the front seat. When I travel, my cooking tends to be pretty simple and focuses on foods that can be cooked in 10 minutes or less. Noodle and rice mixes, canned baked beans and chili, instant mashed potatoes, Tasty Bites, etc., tend to be my staples.
Cooking: I cook on a 2-burner Coleman propane stove (the cheapest one from Walmart). I’m often in windy environments, and it seems to hold up best in the wind. I use refillable propane bottles for a short trip, or a refillable 5-lb propane tank for longer trips. A propane bottle lasts me 5-6 days typically and I’ve had the 5-lb tank last more than 3 weeks. My cooking gear includes one plate, one bowl, a frying pan, a Sea-to-Summit collapsible pot (the one I use is no longer made; the lid is cracking to pieces so I will replace it soon), a collapsible water kettle, and flatware. It all fits nicely in a tote with room for a propane bottle. I have a roll-up table that has room for the stove, totes, and water container. I have a collapsible chair from GCI (no longer made) and an ancient foldable side table I inherited from my dad.
Sleeping: My bed consists of a 1” foam pad. I like a firm sleeping surface, so that works fine. I use an old synthetic sleeping bag, plus blankets for most nights. If it’s cold (around freezing), I’ll throw a 15-degree down bag over the top. If it’s really cold, the down bag becomes the inner layer, and the synthetic layers go on top. This setup has allowed me to sleep comfortably down to 20 degrees.
Lighting: I usually go to bed when it’s dark, so lighting up camp is not an issue. I carry a couple of small battery-powered lanterns and several headlamps in case I do need some light. For my bedtime reading, my Kindle has a backlight.
Clothing: I keep everything in a large duffel bag, except for a couple of jackets. Those float around the car so they are easy to grab, and I can use them to hide equipment from prying eyes.
Batteries: My sound recorders are powered from 10-20k power banks. These, and my camera batteries, are recharged from a Jackery 160. The Jackery is recharged either from the car battery when I’m driving or from my Rockpals solar panels.
Setting up camp means pulling out the food, water, camp chair, side table, and cooking gear. If I’m in a campground, I’ll use the tables provided. Otherwise, I’ll set up my roll-up table which is normally stashed under the platform right behind the front passenger seat. I move the cargo net to one side, unfold my sleeping gear, arrange my blankets, and I’m ready for bed. If the weather is nasty, the totes, stove, chair and side table can all fit in the front driver’s seat.
The Rogue has worked well for my camping needs. It’s very comfortable to drive and gets me where I need to go. I’ve camped at least 40 days in it since I got it. My camping setup evolves every year, as I change out gear that is worn out, or I find a better replacement. With the price of power stations plummeting, the possibility of going all electric with an induction burner is getting quite realistic. I believe that would require a semi-permanent solar panel installation, which is doable and something I will be thinking a lot about in the future.
Camp Electric!
This past winter (2025-2026), I decided to pull the plug (pun intended) on switching my kitchen from propane to all electric. First, I needed a larger battery to power it. There were a bunch of sales on batteries last winter, so I bought a Jackery 1000v2 (30.4aH/35.2v DC (1070 wH)). I chose it not only for the amp-hours, but also the form factor, as it was one of the smallest batteries with that amount of power.
Then I needed solar panels to charge it. I opted for the Zoupw 160w foldable panels and bought 2. Again, chosen for the capacity and size, as they fit nicely in my car. Zoupw panels are also known for their ability to charge above their listed capacity.
I upgraded my cooler situation from a 12v thermoelectric to a 12v compressor fridge, which uses less energy and keeps food much colder. I chose the BougeRV 23 qt. If I did it again, I might choose the SetPower fridge, as they have tie down anchors, which the BougeRV does not.
For cooking, I chose a NuWave Diamond induction burner (actually it was a gift and my friends chose that model), and a hot pot. The pots and pans I used with my propane stove would not work with an induction burner, so I bought a new pot and frying pan.
Overall, this was not a cheap upgrade, although the fridge was a natural progression from my old kit, and the battery was necessary for the fridge.
I made some extra modifications to the car, by adding a riser to hold the battery and fridge, with a drawer that holds the induction burner. This makes cooking very convenient and provides a secure place for the induction burner.
I first tested the setup on a desert trip in March. It performed wonderfully, and I had no trouble keeping the battery charged using the solar panels (I only took 1 on that trip) and car charging when driving.
I took another trip in May that was only 2 nights. I didn’t even bother to charge the battery during the trip and still had a little charge when I got home.
The big test came on a 19-day trip to central Oregon and northern California. I had several days of rain, plus lots of tall trees (shade). Keeping everything charged, even with both panels, was much more difficult. With the cooler, light cooking, and recharging my cameras, recording gear, and laptop, I was using 50% or more of the Jackery each day. At several spots, I stayed put for 3 days, meaning no car charging and a lot of shuffling solar panels around to catch the little bit of sunshine that made it through the trees and clouds. I had brought a single burner propane stove as a backup, and it got a lot more use than I had anticipated. So, overall, my electric setup was not adequate for my usage on that trip. I guess the backup propane stove will need to be a permanent part of the kit. I had not anticipated how much battery the electronics would use.
So, my verdict on the electric kitchen is that it’s fine with a lot of sunshine, but not quite adequate if full sun is not available or I’m not doing a lot of driving. I could push it closer to being totally electric by: getting a bigger battery; wiring in a DC-DC charger to allow faster charging of the battery while driving; and/or mounting fixed solar panels on the roof, which would allow solar charging while I’m driving (at the cost of some MPGs). All of those are more expense than I’m willing to take on at this point but stay tuned.